España Day 8: Walking the Cows

It’s strange how time on the El Camino de Santiago can both stand still and rush by. One moment, everything’s in slow motion, a step or movement taking an eternity and with others it’s as though living in a hyper-lapse and the world a blur. Such is our experience, walking this Pilgrimage trail in a curious state of temporal distortion, not a feeling unpleasant by any means but in fact intoxicating. And we’re left wanting more. We’re in the most gorgeous country of Spain, we’re Peregrinos on a mission and are as happy as one could ever be.

Morning arrives and we’re up early and ready to hit the trail – it’s day five on the El Camino, day eight in Spain. It was a peaceful and most restful night at Pazo de Sedor, our crash-pad. As was the case with every place we stayed at this trip, it was top shelf all the way. For people used to slumming it and pinching pennies, what a change of pace. Thanks Sis & Grant. But enough chit-chat, let’s hit the trail…

1) Before the trek, one of group in traditional Peregrino clothes. This style of hat and cap plus a wood walking stick are iconic symbols of the trail and all that’s missing in the gourd water vessel. Or the scallop shell.

2) Resist the urge to throw a Euro in and make a wish. You know winning the lotto would be nice. We don’t ask for much.

3) In this part of Spain the land is gently rolling in nature. It’s farms, patches of forest and small villages. And a special beauty.

4) The trail follows rural backroads some of the way, while at other times it’s a dirt track through woods or field. And thank goodness for all the shade. Along here it looked as thought we were the only ones walking this day.

1) In traditional Peregrino garb.

5) Over a small creek, a bridge that most certainly is ancient. This region must have been home to many stone masons and just about everything in this corner of the world, it seems, is made of the stuff.

6) One several occasions we saw groups of cows being led to pasture. Yup, this is rural Spain. And it’s awesome!

2) Make a wish…

7) A universal sign the world over. We wonder why it’s not in Spanish? Nearly everything on the trail has some graffiti on it, but it’s always positive, spiritual, or encouraging in nature and so almost accepted.

8) Flowers, flowers, everywhere and such bold colours. In back, a typical rural house in this part of the world.

9) She passed with a greeting and graciously allowed us a photograph, but to those trekkers following behind, who wished similarly to capture a memory of her, she said no loudly and gave them a stern lecture. I guess we’re special. By the way, it’s always best to ask the locals if they’re okay being photographed before snapping away. It’s respect.

10) In the town of Arzúa, these colourful bike racks. It’s the little things seen.

11) As a tractor passes, this small monument to the Peregrino (Pilgrim). The shell is also a symbol of the trail and it seems everyone walking it has one. Ours adorned our packs and are still there. Farms here are small and the tractors not giant-sized like out this way.

12) Narrow streets are the norm in these towns and villages with most being just wide enough for a car. And over there, a cafe/bar. You see places like this in every town and sometimes in the middle of nowhere. They’re a welcome break from the trail and we visited our share. Morning it’s a strong coffee, and afternoon a cool drink. Estrella Galacia is the local beer and is quite tasty.

13) We’ve enjoyed every single moment in Spain, but here on this very spot, you author in the background mid turn comes something odd. Just chatting up our trail-mates over there, looking back at Connie having just snapped this very picture, a sudden overpowering realization…we’re part of something big here. It happened out of the blue, and I know not the trigger, but here on this spot, the feeling of utter peace and a bliss unexplained. Strange.

14) Down some lane, the El Camino is all ours. Sometimes the trail is busy with folks passing, and at other times, we don’t see anyone for a click or two. Love how that worked out. Even when busy, the trail’s a jovial place, the vibe very party like and everyone’s a friend. Wouldn’t it be nice if we always treated each other as we did on the El Camino? The world would be a better place for it.

15-16) We don’t always know why we photograph what we do. Like here.

17-18) A cafe stop and a bag of Sangria. Nothing finer. Cheer to Spain! Cheers to the El Camino! Cheers to little cars and little horses! We didn’t see many “retired” vehicles in Spain, nor many that even old. There’s rules that make owning one difficult.

19) Every rest stop, church, cafe or souvenir shop along the trail has a unique stamp for your passport. Here’s is the Donkey Stamp (by donation). Burro ahead! It’s not just a thing to fill one’s passport, but required if you want your Compostela (certificate of completion) on reaching Santiago. It’s proof you walked the trail.

20) Groups of students would pass from time to time and would soon hurry off as though life depended on it and soon be out of sight. We like a more leisurely pace. All were polite and would shout a collective “Beun Camino” to others on the trail.

21) The happy poo says keep on it. No surface is safe from being defaced, but as you can see, it’s nothing negative in nature.

3) The rolling countryside.

22) Below, a new highway is under construction. Must have been a day off, as no machinery or workers were seen.

23) Here, it’s logging Spanish style. Every now and then we’d see them harvesting groves of trees like this. And on ones recently cleared, we’d see planters at work.

4) Ambling along.

24) Every couple/few clicks comes village after village. And all are quaint and charming. Blue sign – yellow shell, yellow arrow – they’re everywhere. Don’t see one? Then you’re off course.

25) It’s getting warmer now. No, it’s hot. A cool brew would sure go down nice. Can’t resist it. Just one, as the parent would say.

26) And just down the trail, someone’s sneakers.

27) You don’t see many photos of us, and mostly it’s distant shots, back or over the head angles or us in silhouette. Like this. We’re camera shy, interestingly and hate being in the frame.

28) Randomness along the trail, a palm (looking) tree. Lots of these in the area now.

29) A quiet section. This day of all, in particular was odd. It was either full on busy with dozens of people in view, or it was dead empty with not a soul to be seen. Sometimes we worried we were off track, given we’d go half an hour without seeing anyone. Then behind us, a wave of folks would pass.

30) This town will be our lunch stop. If you haven’t been following our adventures, our hosts (Walks in Spain) arranged a mid-day meal for our group. It’s local cuisine, plenty of wine and coffee, and a chance for our group, some dozen or so people from all corners of the world, to congregate, chat and connect.

31) Most of the time we’d all be well spread out on the trail. Here we bump into some from our group. Big truck sighting – must photograph!

32) There something about that El Camino High that make the ordinary extra special. Here, it’s just a house. But we’re in Spain…enjoying life…so it’s more than that. I know, it’s odd our view of the world. It may as well be a cathedral.

33) Stands of Eucalyptus grow in the area, and some, but these, are harvested for paper making. The shade is welcome.

34) We saw our fair share of farms and many look just like this one and were no doubt, likely very old. Some looked lived in, some not so much.

35) We always rave about the architecture in Spain, which for the most part is incredible and even the lowliest of buildings are often elaborate or well decorated. Here it’s a structure plain, simple and full on utilitarian. It stood out for that. All the charm of penitentiary.

36) We’d see our share of murals and here’s a particularly nice one.

37) This is a Spanish made Santana (a PS-10 we think) off road vehicle. The firm shut down recently and even when in business didn’t make a lot of these. For many years Santana was aligned with Land Rover of the UK or Suzuki in Japan.

38) At every junction, at every cross-road, and every place one could go off track, and there’s a lot of each, there’s something marking the way. Many times it’s a cairn like this that shows the distance, to the metre, to Santiago de Compostela, the goal of every Pilgrim, along with an arrow pointing the way. Here, there’s under twenty clicks to go. It’s getting close! And now we’re sad – it’s going to end.

39) And the day only gets hotter. Here, it’s chatting with a member of our group.

40) You can’t see it but we’re smiling while taking this photo. Truth be told, we didn’t stop grinning the whole trip. It was that wonderful. And here, a farm house becomes a castle. We have on our El Camino Googles, where everything seen becomes something special. Begrudge us this strange view.

5) An ancient bridge.

41) And under the road, it’s the end of our day. Awaiting on the other side, is a cold one and a lift to our accommodations for the night.

42) At Pazo Xan Xordo (sometimes Xanxordo, so one word) our group gathers for dinner. More local cuisine, prepared amazingly, copious amounts of local wine, and much laughter and lively banter. Rushing down I snap this out-the-window picture. Looks like I’m getting photographed back.

6) Cows are a theme this day.

43) They have their own church here. According to their website, a “Pazo” is defined “as a type of traditional Galician manor house, of noble character, normally located in the countryside, once the residence of important people of the community.” Galica is the region of Spain and in each region is a group of provinces. Here we’re in A Coruña.

44) The eyes followed me, I swear! Creeped out, so had to turn it around. Evil Cherub.

45) If not for the spiders, big sinister ones, we’d have taken more photos. Interestingly, there were very few icky creepy-crawly bugs, bitey things, or eight-legged terrors seen this trip. Thank goodness. Warmer places are usually where they live, so that there were none, was of all the things, a blessing.

46) It’s a place of gardens and courtyards. Colours abound.

47) Pazo Xan Xordo sits on a huge plot of land. There’s short hiking trail here and oddly, a mini-golf course, guarded by this here bird.

48) Off in the distance, the local garage band rehearses. It’s familiar classic rock from this side of the pond mixed with some Spanish numbers. Eclectic! Started heading their way, but progress was blocked by a deep stream. Too bad, it sounded like a party.

49) All around fields of gold. And now a golden sunset.

50) In a garden a tribute to…well us I guess. We’re Peregrinos! And we’re awesome!

51-52) Wow, lots of photos. Here’s a most amazing Spanish sunset, so good we photographed it twice. And so ends the day.

Tomorrow, we reach Santiago, just there over the hill. It’ll be the final steps in what was some hundred and twenty (or so) clicks walked and awaiting us is mass at the impressive Santiago Cathedral, an experience so mind blowing as to move many to tears. Even us non-religious types. Anticipation has sleep eluding us.

It’ll be bittersweet, the end to what is the most epic of adventures worlds away from where we normal hang and parting ways with our little group who one week ago were strangers but now counted as dear friends. The trail does something wonderful to you, like a realignment to your soul.

Stay tuned for the next instalment! The trail may be ending, but we’re by no means done with Spain.

More from Spain…
Off The Beaten Path en España – touching down in Spain.
España Day 1 – Wandering Madrid – getting to know the city.
España Day 2 – Toledo Cathedral – the most impressive yet.
España Day 3 – Hello Astorga – the last stop before the El Camino.
España Day 4 – Scruffy Peregrino – feet in motion.
España Day 5: Up & Over – lovin’ Spain.
España Day 6: Buen Camino – the “Good Way”.
España Day 7: Lost & Loving It – as though in a dream.
España Day 9-10: Santiago! – a chapter closed.
España Day 10: Evening in O Pindo – Peregrinos no more.
España Day 11: Porto de Quilmas – a “lazy” day.
España Day 12: Cabo Finisterre/Fisterra – the end of the world.
España Day 13: A Taste of Portugal – one final day.

If you wish more information on what you’ve seen here, by all means contact us!

Date: June, 2018.
Location: Galicia Region, A Coruña Province, Spain.
Article references and thanks: Paul & Paul Walks in Spain, Katrina & Grant LaRocque.

7) Never STOP loving…

8) Flowers were in bloom.

9) Off to pasture.

10) Colours.

11) A shout out to all the Peregrinos.

12) The narrow streets of Arzúa.

13) A picture snapped and a realization.

14) In the peaceful countryside.

15) Things seen and passed.

16) Take it for a spin.

17) Nothing beats a bag of Sangria…cheers!

18) Here’s to little cars and little horses!

19) Slow, donkey ahead.

20) A group of students hurriedly pass.

21) Happy poo and one love.

22) Over an empty highway.

23) Tree harvesting.

24) A quiet village.

25) Resistance is futile.

26) Shoe planter!

27) Shadow selfie.

28) Along the trail…

29) A tunnel of trees.

30) Lunch stop ahead.

31) Among friends.

32) We’re in Spain, so it’s not just a house…

33 ) Through a stand of Eucalyptus.

34) A simple and no doubt ancient farm.

35) The most plain and utilitarian building seen.

36) Many murals.

37) A “Santana”.

38) It always points you in the right direction.

39) Thankfully there’s lots of shade.

40) You can’t see it but we’re smiling.

41) Twenty clicks done, our walk ends on the other side.

42) Dinner at Pazo Xan Xordo, our base for the night.

43) They have their own church.

44) He won’t stop looking at me!

45) Yucky spiders had us making a quick exit.

46) All these splashes of colour.

47) Protecting the mini-golf course.

48) Wandering the property serenaded by the local garage band.

49) Fields of gold.

50) Tribute to the Peregrino.

51) A sunset so amazing…

51) ….we shot it twice!